Crochet Bandeau Tutorial

Hello my lovelies xx

Below is a free pattern for my new Crochet Bandeau Tutorial. There is also a full video on how to create it as well.

Go leave me a like and a comment over on YouTube 😉


2 skeins of weight 3 in main color (I used white)

1 skein/scrap amount of weight 3 in secondary color (I used black)

4 mm / G crochet Hook


How To:

Make 2

Make a chain in your main color that is the height of your bust area. I did 25 chains
Row 1 – in 2nd chain from hook, half double crochet across. chain 1, turn.
Row 2-7 – HDC across, chain 1, turn
Rows 8-9 – switch to second color and single crochet across, chaining 1 at the end and turning

Repeat the process of 7 rows of HDC in your main color and 2 rows of SC in your secondary color two more times (XS) or how ever many times it takes to reach half of your bust measurement minus 3″. Your piece should reach this stretched! I did 3 rounds of the striping with three additional rows of HDC in my main color to reach 12″ stretched.

Continue with whichever color is next for you. In my case (XS) I will be continuing with my main color (white).


1 – HDC first two stitches together, HDC across, HDC last two together.
Repeat Row 1 until there are 8 stitches left.

*note* remember to follow the 7 rows in HDC of main color and 2 rows of SC in secondary color throughout this design!
Once you hit the 8 stitches left, continue the striping pattern until the 8 stitches reach 11″. This will be one of your straps to tie in the front!

Once you reached 11″ in length and continuing in the striping pattern, HDC first two stitches together, HDC across and HDC the last two stitches together. Turn and repeat until 2 stitches remain.


Once the two front pieces are done, put right sides together and using your secondary color, SC the two pieces together at the center back.

Using the main color, SC around entire piece to make the edges look more finished.

Try bandeau on and mark spots above each breast where your straps should go. They will probably line up with the center of each breast. I ended up putting the front straps right at the last rows before decreasing in the front.

At this point, SC 5 stitches, Chain 1, turn and continue single crocheting in main color for 38 rows and attach the strap to the back at the first row where you started your second color.

With your main color yarn still attached, chain two and turn your work so you can crochet towards the outer part of the garment (see images). This is going to be the ruffle that is on your shoulder!

To make the ruffles, DC 2 in each row of the strap until you reach the front of the bandeau. Each row you crocheted for the strap should have two DC’s crocheted into it.

Now, Chain 2 and DC 1 in each stitch across. You can bind off at the end or you can chain 2 again and repeat to make the ruffle as long as you want. I did 3 rows of DC on top of initial DC 2 in each stitch.

Repeat on other side of bandeau.




Madalynne Intimates 8711 Kit

Madalynne Intimates 8711 Kit

Hello my lovely readers! Today I bring you my first ever unboxing/review! If you haven’t been able to tell from the title of this blogpost yet, I partnered with Madalynne Intimates to review her new bralette bra kit and pattern for the 8711!


This is her first kit + pattern combo (sold separately) and her first mono-wire design! And if you’re like me and had no idea what a mono-wire was, go check out her website to read all about them 😉



So, like everything I write a blog post for, I of course have to film a video *duh*. So, below this little paragraph is my unboxing of the 8711 and another one of her designs that comes in a kit, the Barette Bralette! If you want to give me a like/comment/subscribe, you can totally click here to visit my channel and watch all of my other videos while you’re at it 🤗

Okay, okay so now the review.. dun dun dun..

Jk, let’s get into it! So when I first measured myself to find out what mono-wire I needed, I measured at a 30D. Which I thought was totally weird and wouldn’t fit me because I wear a 32C, but I emailed Madalynne and she reassured me about the fit and the size to cut and yes, in the end it did turn out to fit me extremely well! I would also take her suggestion of cutting a band size up (which I didn’t do)! I was confused about my size vs the mono-wire size vs the size I had to cut haha but I suggest forgetting about what size you wear commercially for this project!


I chose the blush pink kit because I wanted something that was discreet enough to wear if I wanted to wear it to work or a more formal occasion. I thought the lacey pink and black version would be too sexy for something like that but omg no!! There are a ton of pictures on Madalynne’s Instagram of beautiful ladies wearing their lace version from a workshop that she held recently! If I make this again, I’m definitely going to make a lace version haha.

DSC_3117This bralette is honestly the best of both worlds. It has a mono-wire which is super comfortable and makes it more comfortable for women with a larger bust to wear a super cute bralette. Even for people like me with a smaller chest, I think it’s great! Sometimes I hate wearing bralettes because they’re so tight (to you know, hold you in), so I sometimes prefer a regular bra. The 8711 is not only supportive, but comfortable, lightweight and stylish.


This would also be a great project for a beginner to intermediate sewer because this project is quick and let me tell you, when you’re able to put that mono-wire through and it takes shape into a bra, it is so satisfying! I’ve never had such a satisfying project in that short of time sewing it haha. Not to mention, once I sewed the channeling, I might’ve put the mono-wire in because I thought I had to until I later read “now you can insert the mono-wire” 🤦🏻‍♀️


One thing I do suggest is to have one of your bras handy for the strap and hook & eye portion next to you! For some reason I read the hook & eye portion backwards and had to rip stitch 😅 but it was all good.


So, in conclusion, I love this kit, pattern and final product. I think it would be great to wear everyday, on a special occasion 😉 or even… a boudoir shoot! Honestly I’ve been thinking about how perfect this bra and panty set would be for a boudoir shoot haha.


P.S. I definitely recommend the Odif’s 505 spray adhesive for this project! Just don’t be like me and spray the right side of your fashion fabric to the lining 😂 that was a pain to fix!

Happy crafting loves!


Stephanie Marie


Disclaimer: I am not being paid to post this! All opinions are my own and I was sent the 8711 kit for free to review and unbox 😊

DIY Crochet Succulent Wreath

THUMBNAIL 2Supplies:

  • wooden embroidery hoop
  • natural tan/brown yarn
  • sage, lavender and any other color yarn for succulents
  • 5mm and 5.5mm crochet hooks
  • scissors
  • tapestry needle

single crochet around wooden hoop with natural tan/brown yarn until fully covered. BO.


Succulent style 1

  1. chain 41 in succulent color yarn
  2. (large leaves) slip stitch into 2nd chain from hook, *half double crochet 1, double crochet 2, chain 2, double crochet 2, half double crochet 1, slip stitch 2* Repeat from *to* 2 more times. 3 leaves in total. For the fourth large leaf, half double crochet 1, double crochet 2, chain 2, double crochet 2, half double crochet 1, slip stitch 1 (4 total leaves).
  3. (medium leaves) single crochet 1, half double crochet 2, chain 1, half double crochet 2, single crochet 1, slip slip stitch 2. (1 total)
  4. (small leaves) single crochet 2, chain 1, single crochet 2, slip stitch. (1 total)
  5. Bind Off

Roll into a spiral and sew bottom edges together with a tapestry needle.

Alternate sizes

For larger/smaller leaves, chain an amount of multiples of 10 +1. Then decide if you want larger leaves, medium and smaller. It’s totally DIY and up to you! 😊

Succulent style 2

  1. chain 20
  2. single crochet 4 in second chain from hook and single crochet 4 in each stitch until you reach the end
  3. Bind Off

You can do any length and any number of single crochets in each chain. I recommend 2 if you want a looser spiral and 4 in each stitch if you want a tight curl.


Make as many as you need to fill up your wreath!


Either tie or hot glue the succulents to the wreath, hang and you’re done!


Be sure to tag me in your recreations on Instagram or Twitter! Links are in the righthand sidebar 😊



Stephanie Marie




2 skeins of Michael’s Loops & Threads Impeccable yarn

4 MM crochet hook


Tapestry needle (optional)



This is for an XS

Ch 52

R1 – turn, skip first two stitches and DC in third CH from hook. DC across (50)

R2 – Ch 2, turn, DC across starting in the second stitch from piece as to not increase (50)

Repeat Row 2 for a total of 13 rows

Note: This the how high you want the shorts to sit on your body. The 13 rows for me sits at my “true” waist, which is above your belly button. If you want it to be low rise/mid rise etc, decrease the amount of rows you do!

R14 – Ch 2, DC in FIRST stitch (the one we’ve previously been skipping), DC across, DC2 in last stitch.

R15 – Ch 2, repeat Row 1 for a total of 10 rows of increases

R24 – fold piece in half and mark center stitch on increased part (leg). Count out 10 from each side and mark with a removable stitch marker (20 stitches total). Going back to the non-increasing method, Ch2, DC to first marker, SS to last marker. DC to end (again, only 1 DC in last stitch).

R25 – Ch2, DC to 2 stitches before the first SS, SS to two after end of first SS row, DC to end

R26 – Repeat Row 25 once more



R1 – Starting at farthest SS on bottom hem, start DC’ing 2 in each stitch (I had 58 total DC’s)

R2 – CH2, skip first stitch on piece, DC across (58)


2nd Ruffle – Going 1-2 rows above first ruffle and 4 DC’s in from first ruffle, Start the same ruffle process as stated above. DC’ing 2 in each stitch and then DC’ing 1 in each stitch of the second row.

3rd Ruffle – Repeat same steps for second ruffle, but go above the second ruffle to complete the third.

Make 1 more short/ruffle combo!


1. With right sides together, sew or SC the leg seams together.
2. With right sides together, put one side inside of the other (one piece will be outside right and that will go inside of the wrong side out piece)
3. Sew or SC the “U” together. Leave a bit open at one end so you can get into the piece (or struggle like I did haha)
4. Make a chain long enough and weave it through the first row at your waist so you can adjust the fit.



Materials: for XS


3 skeins color A

1 skein color B (even if doing large size you still might only need 1 skein. I did a version with 103 stitches around and was able to do 20 rows of stripe and still have some left over)



4 Skeins


Tapestry needle

Several pieces of scrap yarn to test fit and size as you go and to hold arm stitches when working the body

7 regular stitch markers and 1 different stitch marker

Size 15 32” circular needles

Size 15 16” circular needles

OPTIONAL size 13 32” circular needles and size 13 16” circular needles if you want the ribbing to cinch




Yarn Over


XS – Extra Small

S – Small

M – Medium

L – Large

K – Knit

P – Purl

YO – Yarn Over

CO – Cast On

PM – Place Marker

TOG – Together

BO – Bind Off


XS (S, M, L)


CO 47 (49, 51, 53) Stitches with 32″ circulars and use bind off method to join. Place 1 different stitch marker

Rows 1-4: K1 P1 ribbing. (Or 1.5”) *you can use size 13 needles if you want the ribbing to cinch*

Yoke (increases for armholes)

Row 1: K2, PM, YO, K 14 YO, PM, K2, PM, YO, K 5 YO, PM, K2, PM, YO, K 14 YO, PM, K2, PM, YO, K 5 YO.

Row 2: Purl all stitches including YO’s

Row 3: K2, YO after marker is moved to right needle, K to next Marker, YO, K2, YO after marker is moved to right needle, K to next marker, YO, K2, YO after marker is moved to right needle, K to next Marker, YO, K2, YO after marker is moved to right needle

Rows 4-17 (21, 25, 29): Repeat rows 2 & 3.

Row 18 (22, 26, 30): Purl all stitches including YO’s

**End of Yoke/Shoulder Increases**

Divide for Sleeves and Body:

K to first marker, remove marker, K to next marker, remove marker, K1, place next stitch on scrap yarn, remove marker, place stitches from here to next marker on same holder, remove marker, place 1 stitch on same holder, tie scrap yarn in a loop so no stitches fall off, CO or YO 1 onto right needle, K to marker, remove marker, K to next marker, remove marker, K1, place next stitch on scrap yarn, remove marker, place stitches from here to next marker on same holder, remove marker, place 1 stitch on same holder (will have to remove marker that signifies start of round, place 1 stitch on holder and put marker back on left needle), CO or YO 1 onto right needle, tie scrap yarn in a loop so no stitches fall off.


Row 1 (color B): P1, P2 TOG, P to next CO or YO under other stitches on holder, P the CO/YO, P2 TOG, P to beginning.

Row 2 (color B): K

Row 3 (color B): P

Rows 4-11(color B): repeat rows 2 and 3

Row 12 (color A): K

Row 13 (color A): P

Rows 14-21 (color A): repeat rows 12 and 13

Row 22 (color B): K

Row 23 (color B): P

Rows 24-31(color B): repeat rows 22 and 23

Row 32 (color A): K

Row 33 (color A): P

Rows 34-41 (color A): repeat rows 32 and 33

Row 42 (color A): K

Row 43 (color A): P

Rows 44-51 (color A): repeat rows 42 and 43

Rows 52-56: K1 P1 Ribbing. (Or 1.5”)


Sleeves (make 2) 16″ circulars

Color A

Pick up stitches so that you begin at the top of the shoulder and not the armpit. Also make sure that the right side of the sweater is facing you and not the inside (see video for better description). Also pick up 3 (3, 4, 4) stitches along the armpit (there should be a gap in stitches here).

Row 1: Knit to exact middle stitch (count and divide by 2) also don’t knit the middle stitch. PM, K1, PM, K to beginning.


Row 2: Purl to 2 STS before marker, P2TOG, move marker, P1, move marker, P2TOG, purl to beginning

Row 3: Knit

Row 4: Purl

Rows 5-9: repeat rows 3 & 4

Row 10: Purl to 2 STS before marker, P2TOG, move marker, P1, move marker, P2TOG, purl to beginning

Row 11: Knit

Row 12: Purl

Rows 13-17: repeat rows 11 & 12

18: Purl to 2 STS before marker, P2TOG, move marker, P1, move marker, P2TOG, purl to beginning

Row 19: Knit

Row 20: Purl

Rows 21-26: repeat rows 20 & 21

27: Knit to 2 STS before marker, P2TOG, move marker, P1, move marker, P2TOG, purl to beginning

Row 28: Purl

Row 29: Knit

Rows 30-35: repeat rows 28 & 29

36: Purl to 2 STS before marker, P2TOG, move marker, P1, move marker, P2TOG, purl to beginning

Row 37: Knit

Row 38: Purl

Rows 39-44: repeat rows 37 & 38

45: Knit to 2 STS before marker, P2TOG, move marker, P1, move marker, P2TOG, purl to beginning

Row 46: Purl

Row 47: Knit

Rows 48-52: repeat rows 46 & 47

Rows 53-56: *K1 P1* repeat * to * until end of each round.


Weave in ends!


Front Body

Below is done in size small, for medium do 2 more rows and for large do 4 more than the small size.

S (M, L)


Row 1: chain 2, hdc in 2nd ch from hook. ch 2, turn. (ch 2 counts as a hdc)

Row 2: 2 hdc in first hdc. Ch 2, turn.

Row 3: hdc in first stitch (counts as an increase because of initial ch2 and turn) across to last ch. Hdc 2 in last ch. Ch 2, turn

Row 4-10 (4-12, 4-14): RPT row 3. (18 ch total for small)

Row 11 (13, 15): mark opposite end of row with a removable stitch marker. Hdc in second stitch (not what your ch 2 is connected to but the next stitch) and hdc across until last stitch. Hdc 2 in last stitch. Ch 2, turn.

Row 12 (14, 16): hdc in stitch connected to ch 2 (first stitch) and across. Ch 2, turn.

Rows 13-20 (15-22, 17-24): repeat rows 11-12 (13-14, 15-16). ( 29 stitches total)

Row 21 (armhole shaping and collar decrease) (23, 25): ss in first 5 stitches. Hdc 2 together. Hdc across until you reach last two stitches. Hdc 2 tog. Ch 1, turn.

Row 22 (24, 26): hdc 2 tog hdc across. Ch 2 turn

Row 23 (25, 27): hdc in second stitch (not one connected to the ch 2). Hdc until last two. Hdc tog. Ch 1 turn.

Rows 24-29 (26-31, 28-33) repeat rows 22-23 (24-25, 26-27) (14? Stitches for small)

Row 30 (32, 34): hdc in second stitch (not one connected to the ch 2). Hdc until last two. Hdc tog. Ch 2 turn.

Row 31 (33, 35) (shoulder shaping): skip first HDC and hdc in next 4 stitches. Ch 2, turn (leaving rest of row unworked)

Rows 32-37 (34-39, 36-41): repeat row 31 (33, 35).

Bind Off



Measure your back from side seam to side seam and make a chain as long adding 4 more chains (crochet shrinks as you work the piece) (2 count as first hdc)

Row 1: hdc in third chain from hook and hdc across. Ch 2 (counts as first hdc) and turn.

Rows 2-9 (2-11, 2-13): hdc in second hdc, hdc across, ch 2, turn.

Row 10 (12, 14): hdc in second hdc, hdc across, ch 1, turn.

Row 11 (13, 15) (Shaping armhole): ss in first 5 stitches, hdc 2 tog, hdc across till last 7 stitches. Hdc 2 tog, ch 2 and turn.

Rows 12-15 (14-17, 16-19): hdc in second from hook, hdc across. Ch 2, turn.

Rows 16-20 (18-22, 20-24): hdc in first stitch (inc) and across. 2 hdc in last stitch. ch 2 turn.

Bind Off.

Seam up side seams

Seam shoulder seams

Seam back collar together and then seam to the back neck hole.

Weave in ends and block if desired.

If you have ANY questions please leave a comment below, on the video on YouTube or send me a message on Instagram @xx.dahi !

Enjoy and good luck!





6.5 mm crochet hook

Size 6 super bulky yarn (I used about 1/3 skein of Bernat Blanket)


SC = single crochet (go through chain, yarn over, pull through, yarn over pull through the two stitches on your hook)

DC = double crochet (yarn over, go through chain, yarn over pull through, yarn over pull through 2, yarn over pull through last two)

Treble Crochet (yarn over twice,  go through chain, yarn over pull through, yarn over pull through two, yarn over pull through two, yarn over pull through last two)


I wear a size 8.5-9 women’s US and these were a ~bit~ loose on me. (I’m thinking they would’ve been more snug if I was also wearing thick fuzzy socks!)

You can start with any number of chains as long as it fits across the widest part of your foot.

For length, you will do as many rows to fit the length of your foot. (I did 14 rows)



First make a slip knot and chain 8 (or as many needed to cover the width of your foot)

Row 1: 1 sc in the second chain from the hook. *1 dc in the next stitch, 1 sc in the next stitch*. Repeat from * to * until the end of the row. Chain 3 and turn.

Row 2: Sc in the second stitch in (on top of the dc). The chain three counts as the first dc. *sc in the next stitch and then dc in the stitch after*. Repeat from * to * to the end of the row. Chain 1 and turn.

Row 3: Sc in the first stitch (on top of the last dc you did in the last round). *dc in the next stitch, sc in the stitch after*. Repeat from * to * till the end.



An easy way to remember how to work this pattern is that if your first stitch when you turn is a dc then you should have chained one and do a sc in that first stitch. If your SECOND stitch is a dc then you would have chained 3 and then skipped the first stitch (single crochet) and have single crocheted on top of the double crochet. 

Leave any comments below or on the video if you get stuck and need help!


Once your shoe is of the desired length, you will chain 3 and turn your work so that you are working down the length of the sole.

Row 1: You will dc around the perimeter of the sole and slip stitch to the first dc. Chain 3.

Row 2: Start dc’ing from the second stitch all the way around until the last 5 stitches. In the last 5 stitches you will sc and chain 2 (counts as first dc of next row)


Row 1: In the second chain dc across to the end. Chain 2 & turn.

Repeat row 1 until the top piece is long enough to cover the top of your foot so that your foot does not fall out of the shoe when wearing it. (I did 4 rows)


To attach the top to the rest of the shoe you will chain one and line up the edges of the top to the edges of the sides of the shoe. Now you’re going to sc along these two edges, seaming them shut as if you were joining two pieces in a side seam or a hat. You will work this starting from the left side, around the front and up the right side of the top of the shoe. There is a good visual of this in the video! Once you reached the beginning, chain 3.


After chaining three we will now be creating 4 more treble crochets across those 5 stitches to create the top of the shoe. You will skip the first stitch and place a treble crochet in the second.

At the end, bind off and tuck yarn.


Fold over the treble crochet flap and thread some yarn through the underside so each loose end of the yarn is coming out of the top. Tie in a bow and you’re done! There is a good visual of this in the video too!

Don’t forget to make 2!

I hope you all enjoyed and if you have any questions, feel free to leave a comment here or on the video for this pattern!

Good Luck!


Stephanie Marie